~ Where the Sun Will Never Set on Our liberty ~
I thought I would take an opportunity to draw attention to a simple, yet effective, light that falls out of the realm of the mainstream “tactical” type lights we so often see being produced and featured today in the 'arms race' of luminosity that is undertaken by many manufacturers.
This review is on the Pak-Lite Super glow which has a design that is ingenious in its simplicity.
For information on this light you can see it here: http://www.9voltlight.com/inc/sdetail/31948
I will allow their website to fill in any details that are not covered here. However, I would like to highlight some of the benefits that I see in having this light.
1 – It is extremely portable so it can easily be placed with almost any type of kit. It is also a fairly durable design regardless of appearance so accidentally dropping it should not cause a failure of any sort.
2 – It has an extremely long runtime on any type of 9V battery. Purchasing a lithium battery will greatly extend the runtime (up to 1200 hours on low), extend the amount of time it can be stored and still be ready to use (up to 10 years), and also enable you to have reliable light when used and/or stored in more extreme temperatures (-40°F to 140°F) where alkaline batteries would cease to function. Lithium batteries also have the added bonus of being 1/4th the weight of alkaline batteries for you 'ultra-light' hikers reading this post.
**A note on the durations listed here, and on their website. These are not ANSI ratings, but from all I have read are fairly accurate listings although I have not tested this myself.** Storage and operating temperatures of the lithium batteries were obtained from the Energizer website concerning their 'Advanced lithium battery'.
3 – This model of the Pak-Lite has two modes of brightness. Low mode throws off roughly the same amount of light as a candle so it is more than enough to navigate with in a dark room, and can be used for reading or viewing a map without the light blinding you in the process. The high mode is accessible at the flip of a switch when desired.
4 – If something should happen where light is needed in an extended emergency situation, you can always find another battery in most all smoke detectors if you are caught with an old or mostly used battery with you at the time. This is a handy detail if you are caught in an urban survival situation like being trapped in a building, or simply by enabling you to keep a practical light handy in an extended power outage in yours or someone else's home.
5 – The cap continues to glow for quite some time after the light is turned off allowing you to easily find it again. Their website lists 12 hours, but I have not experienced this with my own. Merely turning the light on and off though does make mine glow for about 30 minutes. This glow feature is enough to read a clear base plate compass when having a light on during night-time navigation is undesired. Doing this entails switching the light on and then off again while it is completely concealed from view before removing it to use in this manner. If you manage to accidentally drop this light when it has not yet been turned on, you can use another light to 'sweep' the area in question. Even if you do not spot your pak-lite when the light shines on it, when you turn the flashlight off and your eyes re-adjust, you may have hit the pak-lite with the beam causing it to glow and easily be found.
6 – The cap both separates and snaps back on easily for battery replacement, but will not merely fall off.
7 – This also makes for a readily available firestarter if you have any steel wool handy. Merely touching the battery to steel wool will cause instant ignition of the steel wool. So even if you are hypothermic, it takes no more than simple gross motor function to both operate this light, and use it to quickly get a potentially life-saving fire going. This can be done when your Bic or other type of lighter will not function well due to cold temperature, high altitude, or has gotten wet.
8 – It has a very weather resistant but not water-proof design. However, merely removing the cap, and drying the contacts if accidental submersion does happen will have it up and running again in most instances. I have used mine in the rain, and experienced no problems or water infiltration.
9 – There is a cheap accessory kit available for this light. I would however caution against attaching a magnet to this light or having ANYTHING magnetic in your kit other than your compass.
A final note: Neither this author nor this website are affiliated in any manner with any distributor or manufacturer. The aforementioned receive no monetary compensation by your viewing or purchase of any item discussed for your benefit herein. Your mileage may vary.
I hope those reading this find it both informative and useful.
I am a firm believer in having the ability to turn a potential survival situation into something merely less than optimal. Knowledge, preparedness and a little welcome luck can all aid with that goal until someone is rescued one way or the other.
Not long ago, I discussed adding a first aid category to the Prepare page. I need to get to that. I think you meant Neosporin and not "neosporum". I could be mistaken though. If I am, please let me know. Neosporin is good to have. I carry some Neosporin, moleskins and a few other things as part of my own first aid kit. Small fishing, sewing and first aid kits can all be good to have along for the ride.
You did not mention the type of material for the "old t-shirts". I would caution people against the use of cotton where possible for their various outdoor activities except in the case of a bandana. Cotton absorbs a lot of water. Cotton loses most all of its insulative properties when it becomes wet. Cotton takes a LONG time to dry. At least you carry spares though.
Knives can be very personal choices. The type of blade like clip or drop point, blade length, blade width, blade thickness, blade grind, number of bevels, angle of bevels, type of steel, HRC of the steel, type of tang and type of handle material are all important factors for folks to consider. As long as you do not plan on doing much in the way of using your knife for batoning wood, a knife like the Marine combat knife is a fine choice. However, I personally would recommend people go with something with a full tang rather than just a through tang when possible. The tang on a Marine combat knife is formed by two 90 degree angles towards the center of the blade and are quite drastic in nature making the through tang fairly narrow in relation to the width of the blade. This creates a natural stress point weakness that could rear its ugly head with forceful and/or repeated batoning of wood.
As long as a person knows the limitations of their choice of knife, and does not use it to exceeed those limits, there should not be an issue. Hell, one of my favorite knives is a partial-tanged Mora Clipper. I love that thing, but I would not do much in the way of batoning with that though either. Having said that, I have seen people take down small trees with a Mora knife much like my own. Technique has a lot to do with that i.e. not horsing it through when striking the spine of it etc.
I could probably write a small book on knife choice. I have been a knife fanatic since I was a small child. Before I do, I should start to end this reply now. lol Anyways, if folks have any questions, they can always drop me a line through the site.
Have a good day, and thank you for the comment. This thread has gotten somewhat off topic, however; I think you added some good ideas to this discussion.
Flint knapping I have done. I am not particularly skilled in doing it, and it has been a long time since I have even tried so it is not something I would want to rely on if I could avoid it.
Ka-bar makes a pretty good carbon steel. They added Chromium and Vanadium to their 1095 high carbon steel to increase its rust and wear resistance. In fact, they even call it 1095 cro-van. They do a good job tempering their steel, and because they are a larger company they can still make a profit with a lower margin per knife sold so you can get a quality knife relatively cheap. A knife like the BK-2 can be had for only $60 if that's your flavor of knife. Moras can be great too.
Damascus steel can have some gorgeous patterns for sure. The process of making Damascus can be and is done using a variety of steels, both stainless and carbon. Yes, it can be extremely expensive.
I was doing a little searching, and I came across this:
That guys does some amazing work. It looks like the website might be somewhat new as it does not seem completely formed. The couple examples he does show illustrate an amazing talent. He does show a number of patterns he can do though as well. It's a good thing to drool over if that's your poison. I am sure you can find a few really nice looking ways to spend some hard-earned money. Enjoy. :-)
You are most welcome. I just try to help folks in what little ways I can. The particular model I reviewed here is a good bit of kit. I don't think you can go wrong with the purchase of one. If you missed it in all of the discussion here, there is a tab towards the top of this page labeled 'Prepare' if you would like some more ideas on gear. Folks can also ask me whatever they like too. I won't BS people. If I do not know something, I say so.
Great for EDC Kit!
Your post was picked up by Prepper Talk Daily! Got a screen shot of it!
Bumping back to the front for new members to see.
Rah, your review is top of the list of online reviews at this site: http://www.9voltlight.com/reviews
Thanks Robin, that was nice of you to do! Rather than repeat what I just wrote to JG, I'll just say I miss you all, and I will try not to be so darn scarce!
Anything for you! ;-) Good find by JG too!